A happy birthday amongst the great divide

I imagine that there are not too many people in this world who can say they spent part of their birthday in North Korea (other than N. Koreans, of course). Well, I did. No big deal, right? Not only was I back on the peninsula where it all began, I was standing across enemy lines. Such an amazing, yet terrifying experience. Visit the DMZ...check. Take pictures in authorized areas...check. Visit the gift shops and buy some souvenirs...check. Travel through one of the tunnels built by North Korea during the war...check. Sign a declaration of "no fault," should war erupt and I get killed while visiting the Joint Security Area...check. Words cannot even express the emotions that rushed over me today. I think I now have a sense of how cattle feel when they are being transferred into the cattle drives. Due to the recent tensions, the tour was cut short. Translation: rush off the bus, in single file lines with a MP escort, take a few pictures of the official concrete slab known as the Demarcation Line, crossover into North Korea (under extreme military watch and shelter), rush back over the line, take a few pics of the North Korean soldier creepily watching us with his binoculars. CHECK, which was a good thing since I think that was all my nerves could handle. Did I mention, while in the JSA, I passed the "most dangerous golf couse in the world?" It sort of puts things into perspective as June 25th marks the 60th anniversary of the war. While I have only been here for a week, it has been interesting to hear the buzz directly from Koreans regarding the possibility of reunification. It's a mixed bag-some seem optimistic, others are unsure, some just don't want it. For historical reasons and present day politics, I can identify with all of those responses. However, I think the biggest error could be falling into the comparative trap when looking at Germany and Cuba. Eh, let's move on, shall we?

Upon returning to Seoul-sweaty, tired, and a little cranky, I wasn't sure that I was going to see my birthday "plans" come to fruition. No, I did not take in the Seoul (late) nightlife, or wander into some sketchy ex-Pat bar, but I did have an amazing night with my colleagues, many of whom have become wonderful friends. The Korean is in my blood and while I have been (over) indulging in Korean food, I decided that it was time to deviate from the path and do something truly American. LOL, so we ate at California Pizza Kitchen. I really enjoy CPK in the States and it was pretty darn good in Korea, as well. To top off my tasty, American food, I finished my dinner with a Dunkin' Ring Cake and a happy birthday ditty in Korean (thank you Jen and Emily...you're awesome)! Following dinner, it was off to another cultural/musical excursion...loved it.

Gotta say, this is one for the record books. This is certainly a birthday I will never forget. Thank you to my wonderful family and my Fulbright peers for making the day of my birth/return to Korea that much more memorable.